Mark: Rick owens
Season: Spring / Summer 2022
To buy: SSENSE, MATCHESFASHION
Editor’s Notes: Rick Owens caused a sensation at Paris Fashion Week.
The designer, back in France after having hosted his last parades on a beach in northern Italy (business without an audience, thanks to COVID), presented an SS22 collection that is both gothic and glamorous.
Michèle Lamy, Owens’ companion and muse, opened the show in a three-dimensional leather skirt that protruded at an angle. Paired with a new take on the brand’s instantly recognizable transparent-heel platform boots, the set got things off to a good start.
There were, of course, the features of Owens, including sculptural cocoon-like knits and lots of black leather. But the designer also showed off some surprisingly soft and elegant dresses that wouldn’t be out of place on the red carpet.
A delicately draped dress in transparent fabric of blue thistle color with a stripe at the level of the abdomen, revealing a patch of skin. An equally tight-fitting dress, this time in black silk, featured a geometric whalebone bodice that gave way to a flowing, angled skirt. (The same dress also appeared in leather, capped with a pair of gloves above the elbow.)
Other strong points: cobweb knits with two holes for the neck, one functional and one placed at the level of the abdomen as a kind of fabric navel; a jacket-cape hybrid dyed in gold; boots in the form of armor that buckled the thigh.
This season, the dark prince of fashion was not all bad luck. Owens played with soft pastels and vibrant oranges, lifting the veil on a brighter side of the designer – and setting the stage for his continued evolution.