Why South Carolina is the new hub for sustainable vegan mushroom leather

San Francisco-based biomaterials startup MycoWorks plans to build its first large-scale mushroom leather production facility in Union County, South Carolina, enabling the company to produce multi-million square feet of this innovative new material per year. MycoWorks will invest $107 million to establish operations in Union County, including the creation of 400 new jobs.

Scheduled to be operational in 2023, the new facility is modeled after the company’s semi-automated pilot plant in Emeryville, California, which produced more than 10,000 trays of mycelium mushroom roots used to make the material, demonstrating the scalability of MycoWorks patented mushroom leather. manufacturing process. A tray of mycelium is equivalent to half an animal hide in traditional leather making.

Founded in 2013, MycoWorks’ leather-like Fine Mycelium materials and platform, including its flagship product Reishi, are made from the fast-growing root systems of fungi. The startup’s patented process produces the natural material with the performance of traditional animal hides and a lower environmental impact. But, unlike animal skin, it can be made to order and to the exact specifications of fashion and luxury brands wishing to use the material.

Vegan mushroom leather is leading the materials revolution

MycoWorks’ decision to ramp up production in South Carolina comes after a successful $125 million Series C funding round, led by Prime Movers Lab. While the startup is using most of the funds to build the new facility, the funding will also support the company’s team expansion and continued research and development to improve its mushroom leather platform.

“What MycoWorks has achieved with its Fine Mycelium platform is not just a breakthrough, it’s game-changing for industries that are ripe for change,” Prime Movers Lab general partner David Siminoff said in a statement. . “This opportunity is huge, and we believe that unparalleled product quality combined with a proprietary and scalable manufacturing process has allowed MycoWorks to serve as the backbone of the new materials revolution.”

The new production facility will allow MycoWorks to meet growing demand for the company’s materials. Last year, MycoWorks began its first partnership with luxury brand Hermès, applying its custom material Sylvania to the Hermès Victoria bag. As it transitions to mass production, MycoWorks plans to announce more high profile brand collaborations over the coming year across a range of price points.

More and more brands are getting into mycelium

The mushroom leather sector is not without competition and the major brands are noticing this. Startup Bolt Threads is creating similar vegan leather from mycelium it calls “Mylo” and has partnered with a group of brands to bring it to market. Eco-conscious designer Stella McCartney works exclusively with Bolt Thread’s Mylo mushroom leather and launched the world’s first mushroom leather pants and handbag last year. Adidas is also working with Bolt Threads to create new classic sneaker styles made from its durable material.

Sportswear retailer Lululemon’s new yoga mat concept is made entirely from Mylo, and the vegan mushroom leather is included in two bags. “Sustainable innovation will continue to play a key role in the future of retail and products, and for us, leveraging a material like Mylo demonstrates our commitment to creating a healthier environment through low-energy products. impact, while giving us the ability to reimagine iconic parts of our lineup with sustainability in mind,” Sun Choe, chief product officer at Lululemon, said in a statement.

Additionally, VH Corp. (the parent company of fashion brands Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger) and BESTSELLER (which owns 20 brands such as ONLY, JACK & JONES and VERO MODA) have joined forces with biotech company Ecovative to develop custom mycelium materials for the mass market.

For more than a decade, Ecovative has produced mycelium-based materials for partners in North America, Europe and Asia. Earlier this year, the company launched Forager Hides, a vegan leather based on Ecovative’s second-generation mycelium materials, to help solve sustainability challenges in the fashion industry.

To learn more about mushroom leather, read:
Adidas Unveils Stan Smith Sneaker In Vegan Mushroom Leather
Biotech brand launches vegan mushroom leather handbag
A German brand is developing a line of vegan shoes with mushrooms

Nicole Axworthy is editor of VegNews and author of the cookbook DIY vegan.